Monday, 4 June 2012

About Monaco (Part 2)


Thursday 24th May 2012

Waking up on Thursday, I felt a bit ill, not to mention my mood had plummeted a bit after the amazingness of the previous day. After all, how could anything ever top that? However, I soldiered on valiantly (I'm nothing if not a trooper), and we headed to the train station in time to hopefully catch some of FP1.

It was time for Hideous Train Experience No. 1. The train was reasonably busy, and we had to stand. Just after we got onto the train, two girls in their late teens tried to brush past us. We tutted and pointed out that hello, there was nowhere for them to go, or WE wouldn't have been standing there either. It was a matter of minutes later when Jade checked her bag and realised that her purse was gone. At the time, we didn't connect it with the two girls at all, and I tried to reassure her that it had to be back in the hotel room somewhere. Jade got off at the next stop to head back to Nice and deal with the horror of police reports and arranging to get some money, while I carried on into Monaco alone.

The signage around the outskirts of the track was vague, to say the least, and I did seem to wander around various streets in Monaco before eventually finding the entrance to grandstand L. There weren't that many people about at that stage, but I resisted looking at any merch stalls. To be honest, I have enough stuff already, and attempting to do Monaco on a budget meant I had strictly forbidden myself from buying any Ferrari and/or Massa-related merchandise.

I made it up to the grandstand in time for the last half an hour or so for FP1, and the view was pretty great. 




Grandstand L is quite a small grandstand just past the exit of the swimming pool, so you can see them heading towards Rascasse. Our main reason for choosing L for the Thursday was that it gives you a great view of the pitlane. In between times when there were cars on the track, I sat and watched the comings and goings in the garages – the best kind of noseying you can do, methinks. And as for the noise... well, it was immense. Monaco is so small that F1 cars sound even louder than normal. When you go to a race, when you hear the cars for the first time, it reverberates through your guts and completely blows your mind. This was Grand Prix number 9 for me, but hearing that noise on the first day at the track still never fails to give me shivers. It's just fantastic.

After FP1 was the GP2 practice session, during which I got to see the Monaco cranes in action.






On Thursday, the hill behind Rascasse was already starting to fill with people. They seemed to be mainly there in support of Fernando Alonso, going by the Asturias flags. It was funny to see the camping chairs sitting up on such a steep hill – it felt quite namby pamby to be sitting there in a proper grandstand; although to be honest my backside was so numb at that point from several hours of sitting on a hard grandstand bench, that clinging onto the side of a hill may not have been any less uncomfortable.




During FP2, the rain started. With a sigh, I pulled my rainmac out of my bag and resigned myself to getting soaked at a GP AGAIN. (I'm a veteran of Silverstone 2008, Monza 2008, and Silverstone 2011). I swear, in the highly unlikely event of me going to the Abu Dhabi GP, it would probably STILL rain. I'm done with watching F1 from underneath a hood, I'm done with having squelchy socks and ruined shoes, and I'm done with sitting on a rain-damp seat in a grandstand. Thankfully, the rain was pretty light and minimal, so I was able to take off the hated rainmac before too long.

Jade made it back to the track just after FP2 finished, having realised by then that the two girls on the train had been pickpocketing little bitches. We were both pissed off about it but we reasoned that the fact it had 'only' happened on FP1/2 day was much better than it happening on Saturday or Sunday. Also, our faith in human nature was restored somewhat when a man came over and asked if Jade was Brazilian, given that she was wearing a t-shirt with the Brazilian flag on it. Even though we both said we were British, he kissed our hands, and then re-appeared a few moments later with a pint each for us. How lovely!

Our moods were also cheered by learning that there had been a cracking Smedley/Massa radio message during FP1. Once back in the grandstand for more GP2 and GP3 action, we then got a wave from Felipe as he and Fernando were walking down the pitlane together. People were calling out to Fernando, so we whooped and clapped and shouted out Felipe's name. We were rewarded with a wave and the usual Massa thumbs-up. BFF, us and Felipe, now.




Kimi and Handsome Jerome

During the GP2 we received a couple of tweets, all basically asking 'Were you two just on the GP2 world feed?!' Oh no. At one point I'd had a bug in my hair which Jade had wiped off, and apparently this moment was captured during the coverage. I say 'apparently', as I refuse to watch it. I don't even like seeing myself in photographs, so I am in no way prepared to see myself on TV when I had no idea I was being filmed. Cringe. Cringe, cringe, cringe. Jade found the whole thing hilarious, but my low self-esteem and I do not. I'm just glad that no-one I know watches GP2. Oh, the humilation! I've since been told I could be seen on the BBC qualifying coverage as well, but again I have zero desire to see myself. Goodness knows I'm self-conscious enough as it is.

The day's track action over, we went to the other side of the grandstand, where we could peer over and have a good nosey at the pitlane.




After that, we headed up to Rocher, where we had to wait for the marshalls to re-open the track so we could all get back down to the paddock. This was a good place to stand if you wanted to see various team people leaving on their mopeds. At that spot over the course of the weekend, we saw the likes of Ross Brawn, Allan McNish (who is the smallest little man I've ever seen – I'm about 5'4" and he's SHORTER than that), professional BBC propaganda merchant and Olympics bore Jake Humphrey, and Romain Grosjean, who almost ran Jade over with his moped at one point.


Fernando advertising ciggies

It was fairly late in the evening by that point, so there wasn't much to see driver-wise in the paddock. We headed to Stars N' Bars to meet up with Steph again, and sat chatting with a guy who works for Mercedes as a truckie. He told us some interesting stories, including one about the Red Bull team which I don't think I should really repeat (sorry), but suffice to say it was rather interesting.

By the time we made our way back onto the racetrack, it was dark, and the famed Monaco partying had begun. Friday, of course, is a public holiday in Monaco so Thursday night is very much party night. The bars surrounding the harbour area had opened out onto the racetrack, and everyone was standing on the track with drinks. Music was blasting out, and the big screens were showing all the track action from the day. 






It was quite a sight to behold and we would have dearly loved to stay and party, particularly as one of the bars was playing rock music. Instead, we had to start making our way to the train station, and did so via walking the track. We went past all the yachts as we wandered towards the tunnel, and saw all the 'beautiful people' with their champagne and designer clothes. I'm still not sure how I feel about that aspect of Monaco. On the one hand, I could claw my own face off with jealousy, but on the other, I really don't think I feel entirely comfortable with such reckless displays of wealth. The yachts and cars and money are no doubt great, but these people don't live in the real world whatsoever. Having said that, it didn't stop me from walking past them all, mouth agog, and shaking my head at the lifestyles being led which are an entire universe away from my own.

The buzz was killed somewhat when Steph texted me to say that ALL trains were cancelled. Thanks to a strike, we had just had Hideous Train Experience No. 2. She very kindly waited for us to rush back up to Rocher, where she had gotten a taxi. It made us concerned about getting back to Nice for the rest of the week, and many rants about the SNCF were had.

Back at our apartment, we found out from Twitter that there had been a bomb scare in the paddock that evening. Well, we'd been right beside it all evening while this was supposedly going on, and we'd seen and heard precisely zilch. It did amuse me greatly that I'd never been in a bomb scare at home in my 32 years of living in Belfast, but was apparently in one in Monaco, of all places.

Still, it had been a promising day in terms of Ferrari, with both Felipe and Fernando doing pretty well in both practice sessions. Every year I forget how much fun it is watching Felipe drive around Monaco, and every year I ALSO forget how utterly, utterly terrifying it is hoping he won't bin it. He seemed to be throwing the F2012 around with a lot more confidence, spark, and general Felipe-ness than he had been all season. All in all, things, for once, weren't looking too depressing for him...


Friday 25th May 2012

We made it to the track in time to see the GP2 and GP3 races. Because there's little track action on the Friday, you can go into any grandstand. We sat in K1, which is a section of the K grandstand that allows you to see the exit of the tunnel, Tabac, the entrance and exit of the swimming pool, and, if you look behind you, Ste. Devote. Suddenly the expense of the grandstand tickets were completely justified – the amount of track we could see was absolutely superb, and as for how close we were...




We think this was the Marlboro yacht where Felipe and Fernando were on the Thursday night

View from K grandstand

The K grandstand is also opposite the main part of the harbour. There were some stunning yachts moored there, including the hilariously named 'Tuppence'.


Worst yacht name ever?

Once again we went to Rocher after the racing was done to wait for the pitlane to open. There, we saw where the safety cars were kept.




It was very much a case of right place, right time, as when they finally opened the gates, we were able to stand beside the pitlane entrance and see the drivers making their way from the paddock to pitlane in order to sign autographs. We had the perfect spot to see them arriving, and fittingly, the first person we saw was our buddy Rob. Jade shouted over to him, and he didn't even look scared or anything! Bonus!


"Oi Rob!"

I think the only drivers we didn't actually see during this point was the two Red Bull guys. In fact, the only driver I didn't see close up over the course of the entire week was Mark Webber. Some drivers, like JEV or Pedro, were able to walk past everyone with minimal fuss, but the likes of Fernando and Felipe, and Jenson and Lewis, were constantly swamped with crowds of people. It's easy to scoff at the poor little racing driver millionaires having to deal with media and sponsor commitments at races, but the drivers were constantly being ushered about and having to deal with fans and the press sticking cameras in their faces. It really demonstrates how talented they are to be able to get into 'the zone' and go out and race in Monaco despite the vast amount of other things they have to deal with.






It's Gary Anderson, so it is!

During Lewis and Felipe's many scuffles last year, Felipe at one point gave a ranty interview to the BBC in which he said that Lewis needed to "use his mind". Upon seeing Lewis, I developed some kind of Tourette's, and shouted "Use your mind!" at him. I meant it in a nice way, I promise. And he wouldn't have heard me (or cared) anyway. It felt quite cathartic, though, and certainly much better than stomping around my living room screaming at the TV like I did last year during the Monaco GP, that's for sure.

During the drivers' autograph session, I finally managed to get a photo of Michael Schumacher. 




He's extremely elusive, and tough to see. For example, while other drivers walked, he zipped about on a scooter. I suppose it's fair enough – he's still surrounded by more people than probably anyone else. I only got one photo of him before he disappeared again, but my main goal was to get decent photos of the Ferrari drivers anyway. 



That's a lot of face right there, Fernando

Adorable, tiny little Brazilian man

The result of this was a completely (I SWEAR) accidental picture of Felipe and Fernando's arses, which I hadn't realised I had taken until later that day. I'd been attempting to take a photo of Felipe but somehow ended up with bums instead.


That's Felipe in the white shorts, and Nando in the jeans, bum-fans

Like the previous evening, the track was again opened up to all the bars. The rock bar was playing Sympathy for the Devil by the Rolling Stones, and the big screen was showing shots of Felipe during the practice sessions. It was a nice little moment and I'll always associate that song with Monaco now. I adore moments like that.


Pleased to meet you, hope you guess my name...

Because of the train strikes the night before, we regretfully decided to head back to Nice a little earlier. We walked part of the track on our way to the train station, namely from Rascasse to the tunnel, through the tunnel, and then onto the hairpin and Casino Square.




Many Ferraris, Porsches, Bentleys etc passed us as we walked through the tunnel, including a chrome-plated Porsche (which is the tackiest thing I have ever seen), but we were more taken with the marbles inside the tunnel, which were lying at the side, and even stuck to the roof! Also in the tunnel were some tyre marks – a remnant of Felipe vs Lewis in 2011?





At the hairpin, the Fairmont Hotel was hosting a Marussia car launch. We were too trampy looking for the likes of that, so we walked on up to Casino Square, where we were definitely too trampy. Casino Square was where all the designer shops and fancy hotels were – not really my thing, but it was still interesting to see. There were lots of designer-clothes clad people about, and supercars, but I felt much more at home being around the track and cheap beer.




The Fairmont Hotel, at the hairpin



We had a last look from high up in Monaco (man, it's hilly) before going back to the hotel for some beers (which we had to open with a potato peeler due to lack of bottle opener) and badly dubbed French TV.


Looking down on Monte Carlo

<3


Sunday, 3 June 2012

About Monaco (Part 1)


My list of 'Must Go To Races' was always as follows:

  • Spa (done in 2001 and 2009),
  • Monza (done in 2008),
  • Canada (maybe one day).

Monaco was never on the list. Why? Boring races, rich idiots on yachts, pointless celebrities who aren't interested in F1 (you're thinking of the Sugababes right now, aren't you?), and too much of a focus on the parties, fashion shows and glamour.

All that said, when friend and fellow Felipe Massa die-hard Jade, AKA @lookingspiffy was planning to go to the 2012 Monaco GP, I jumped onboard immediately and started saving. I wasn't looking forward to it anymore than I normally do when I'm going to an F1 event, and I figured that as a Ferrari fan, nothing was ever going to top going to Monza anyway. Also playing on my mind as I boarded my Belfast-Nice flight was 'I hope my house doesn't burn down while I'm away', 'What if I've spent all this money and Felipe has a terrible race?' and most of all, 'I miss my dog'.

I'm an idiot. I mean, I knew this anyway – but really – I am an idiot.


Tuesday 22nd May 2012

As well as general idiocy, I'm also fairly (read: very) pessimistic. I figure that if I don't get my hopes up about anything, then I won't suffer any disappointments. So as I landed at Nice Airport on the Tuesday afternoon, I believed I was in for a good week of watching the cars go around the track, and maybe a driver-spotting or two, if I was very lucky. Probably just drivers in the lower teams at that. I mean, how much access could you get at Monaco?

Jade and I had flown into Nice on the Tuesday purely so we would be in Monaco for the Nazionale Piloti match, an event held by Prince Albert every year. It features Prince Albert's 'All Star' team against a team made up of current and former racing drivers. I'm no football fan – the last time I watched a full 90 minutes of football was probably the 1990 World Cup when I liked Gary Lineker (shut up), but F1 drivers playing football was a different story entirely. I knew that Felipe usually played for Nazionale Piloti, so at the very least his presence would stop me from slipping into a coma during all the pig-bladder kicking.

After a quick trip to a supermarket in Nice to stock the fridge in our really very good apartment, we made our way into Monaco via the number 100 bus. This allowed us to see how beautiful the coastline is, as we passed through places such as Villefranche-Sur-Mer, Eze, and the intriguingly titled 'Barmassa'. Unfortunately the winding, clifftop roads also left me feeling decidely green and vomity (I'm a driver, not a passenger), so our bus experience was not repeated for the rest of the week. (More about the horrific transport situation later).

We found the Stade de Monaco fairly easily, sort of laughing to ourselves in a 'Haaaaah, look at us walking through MONACO like this is totally normal' way, and paid the ridiculously cheap price of €5 each for a match ticket. €5. To see F1 drivers running about in shorts.

Points to note about the Stade de Monaco:
  • It's a 70s nightmare.
  • It is tiny aside from having around 3 billion concrete steps, 99% of which I think we walked up in an attempt to find our seats.
  • It is entirely painted in becoming shades of forest green, light brown, brown, and dark brown.
  • It's a teeny bit rapey.
  • The Eagles played there for Prince Albert's wedding. That has nothing to do with the Nazionale Piloti match; I just think it's an interesting if slightly bizarre fact.

Anyway, we settled into our seats and our respective Massa-radars went off a few minutes later when lo and behold, the man himself appeared with his little brother, Dudu. Other drivers present included Sergio Perez, Ivan Capelli and his little beard, and surprisingly, Michael Schumacher, who hadn't played for Nazionale Piloti for quite a while. I sat through the first half resisting the temptation to shout 'Offside!' and 'Oi, ref!', and generally take the piss. The sun was shining, I was watching F1 drivers trot around a football pitch in the South of France, and all was well with the world.

During half-time, we realised that Felipe's dad, and son, Felipinho, were there also, so rare maternal feelings were felt as we watched Felipe walk onto the pitch with him before going off into a huddle with Michael to talk about tactics or something. Thankfully Felipe was subbed quite early into the second half, so we spent the rest of the match not even paying attention to the football; instead watching Felipe kick a ball back and forth with Felipinho right in front of us.


3 generations of Massa

I judge me for taking the amount of photos I did during this, I really, really do. And yet, I. could. not. stop.

At the end of the match, we left the stadium happily and got the train back to Nice. I figured that if nothing else, I'd seen Felipe in the flesh that evening, because let's face it, no way would I get that close again over the course of the rest of the week...


Outside the Stade de Monaco

Inside Monaco train station


Wednesday 23rd May 2012

The plan for Wednesday was just to go into Monaco and see what happened. The weather was sunny and hot, and the rain that had been forecast for the weekend didn't seem like it was going to happen. Exiting Monaco train station and walking outside, it took a good few seconds before I realised where we were standing – Ste. Devote.


It was a bit of a mind-melt standing there, thinking about 1997, when Michael went off there in the rain and still went on to win the race, or 2008, when Felipe went off in the same place (but sadly didn't go on to win).

We walked down towards the starting grid, taking in the pre-race atmosphere which was bubbling away around us. The roads were open to 'normal' traffic and I can confirm that the amount of cars and mopeds in Monaco is mental. I felt like I took my life in my hands every time I tried to cross the road.



As we walked further down the road, we saw an entry to the pitlane on the left. People were filtering through it, so we followed. The entire time, I was waiting for someone to stop us, tap us on the shoulder, or ask to see our passes. Nope. Nothing. You get so used to not having access to anywhere at the likes of Silverstone or Spa that it seemed ridiculous that they'd just let any old plebs into the pitlane, even if it was only Wednesday.

Obviously they had the garages blocked off but we were still able to walk along down the pitlane and see into the garages. There were no drivers about, but there were mechanics working away on the cars, and team members walking up and down, seemingly oblivious to all the fans standing gawking at them and taking photos.



Naturally we made a beeline for the Ferrari garage in the hope of seeing a certain race engineer from Middlesbrough. Jade and I had met Rob Smedley in the Catalunya paddock during testing in 2011, and while I really wanted to meet him again, realistically I doubted I'd be that fortunate twice. Also, I feared swooning-based embarrassment may occur.



While we were having a bit of a nosey into the Brazilian side of the Ferrari garage, another online F1-fan friend Steph (@redsteph91) called me to say that she'd just arrived and was down in the paddock. Being our first time in Monaco, we had no idea how to GET to the paddock, so we continued peering into the garage in the hope of seeing someone blue-eyed and chin-dimpled. Then, Steph texted to say that she'd just seen Rob Smedley in the paddock. Yep, it was time for us to leave the pitlane. As we walked to the end, I heard a woman's voice very loudly saying "And then he said 'I need to have sex RIGHT NOW'." I turned around, only to see that the woman telling this intriguing tale was Sky presenter Natalie Pinkham. Probably best to keep your voice down in future, love.

We walked down some steps and ended up beside the harbour, where the entrance to the paddock was. Again, no-one tried to stop us, and people were freely walking about. It wouldn't take a completely mental fan to go to Monaco as they'd have easy access to their chosen target. Not that I'm saying that I am not completely mental, I can go a bit crackers when it comes to my favourite F1 people, but I don't wish to harm them in any way. I'd like that to go down on record, please.

You know how people on TV are always saying that the paddock in Monaco is tiny? Well, it's TINY. It is big enough to house all the F1 team's motorhomes and that's about it. This means that you can walk down either side of the paddock, and also stand at the entrance and exit. The team members and drivers really have nowhere to run/hide. I mean, there's a white metal fence that surrounds everything which is a bit of a bastard, but provided you're happy just to see people and not attempt to you know, grab them in any way, that's fair enough. (Grrr, though).

Our main incentive for going to the paddock (aside from trying to kidnap race engineers named Rob) was to collect passes for a bar called Stars N' Bars. Over race weekend if you have a pass for there, you can get back down to the paddock straight after qualifying and the race, rather than waiting for the roads to re-open. Again we knew all this from Steph, who was on her third trip to Monaco and was able to give us all her tips and knowledge, without which we'd have been lost at times. On our way there, as we walked along the length of the paddock, we saw Sergio Perez being interviewed. He signed quite a few autographs for the waiting fans, including me. I was pretty blown away at having gotten photos and an autograph of a driver after only being at the paddock for a matter of minutes. 



We continued down to Stars N' Bars, and had just entered the bar, when Steph said "Rob Smedley's down there!" We belted out of the bar and back outside like teenage girls at a One Direction concert, with cameras and autograph books in hand. I REGRET NOTHING. Rob was standing behind the motorhomes, texting. 

Lookit his wee smiling face when he's texting Felipe

We called him over and he said to hold on, he was texting Felipe. When he came over to us, he said that Felipe was "texting him stupid things, as usual", and was "a halfwit". All said with affection and a smile, obviously. I got his autograph, he handed the book back to me and called me 'sweetheart', then we got a photo with him each, after which he called me 'darling', and I died a bit, then I dunno, we maybe blabbered onto him a bit more before he left, and we immediately took ourselves off to a shop at the bottom of the harbour which sold tins of Heineken for €2. Heineken has never tasted so good.

Super teeny photo because my mug is in it
Beside the harbour was also the Red Bull floaterhome, where we saw Daniel Ricciardo, and Mark Webber getting out of a speedboat. 




We sat down there for a while, drinking our beers and appreciating the sunshine, the Med, and the stunning yachts in the harbour. 

Beautiful
Already I was absolutely loving the Monaco experience, and I'd only been at the track itself for a couple of hours. We took ourselves back to the paddock after that, and plonked ourselves opposite the Ferrari motorhome, where we were destined to spend quite a lot of the weekend...

Almost immediately we saw Andrea Stella, Fernando Alonso's race engineer, and Matteo Orsi, Felipe's physio, whom you'll usually see on the grid, holding an umbrella to shield the precious driver from the sun or rain. Matteo was very taken aback by us asking for his autograph, but he's part of Team Massa, so of course we wanted it. 

Andrea Stella

Matteo Orsi

Our other targets for the day were Felipe himself, and Giuliano Salvi, his performance engineer. While waiting, all manner of drivers, team members and F1 media people walked past; too numerous to mention (or indeed, remember). We seemed to see Narain Karthikeyan a lot ("Ugh, this guy again"), along with Charles Pic, and Graeme Lowdon from Marussia, who I'd seen at the airport when our respective Easyjet flights from Belfast and Newcastle had landed at the same time, and who I swear must have been following me all week. Graeme, stop it. Just stop.

It was around this point that I was made aware of the fact that I refer to everyone in my Northern Irish way as 'yer man', and subsequently got the piss taken out of me about it for the rest of the week. We saw so many F1 people that I was constantly saying "Ooh look, there's yer man!" (Usually Graeme Lowdon). And as I pointed out, they always knew who I was referring to. So hah.

I was starting to doubt whether the Ferrari drivers were actually around when Fernando appeared in his ridiculously oversized hat and dreadful white sunglasses (I love him really). He didn't sign many autographs but I did manage to take some terrible photos through the fence. 

Dear God, make the hat and sunglasses combo go away

Now, where was Felipe? When his brother appeared we knew he must be lurking somewhere – surely the combined force of Jade and I's support for him could lure him out of the Ferrari motorhome?

Hurrah! Finally the doors parted and there was Felipe, a strapping young lad of... 5'4". Without Jade brandishing her Brazil flag, I'm not sure he would have stopped to sign anything, but he did, and we both got autographs and photos. He and I had a chat too – if you count him saying "I need a pen" to me as 'a chat'. I do, so just shush, okay?



'How do I spell 'Felipe', again?'

I was just so thrilled to have met Felipe. Being a Massa fan has always been tough, be it because of last lap Championship losses, comas, team orders, constant sacking rumours, and really quite vile at times media slagging. The early part of the current F1 season has been particularly grim, and I was hoping before I went away that I might be able to meet him while I had the opportunity, in case... well, you know.

I could have floated off on a little bubble of happiness to get more beer after that, but we still had to try to see Giuliano Salvi. We'd decided to give it '5 more minutes' when he appeared.


Lovely Giuliano

Like Matteo, he was really humble and surprised that we knew who he was and wanted an autograph. Giuliano was loveliness personified, asking our names so he could sign for us. Team Massa's autographs? Job done.

Following that, there was meeting Stefano Domenicali and Pastor Maldonado, seeing Kimi pissing off to his yacht despite loads of fans crowding around him in the hope of an autograph, more beer, and a walk up to Rascasse on our way to the train station (there were no Ferraris parked there this year).




Run, Kimi! Run like the wind!

It sounds insane, but we'd seen so many people that by the end of the day, we'd become completely used to it ("Oh there's Charles Pic - AGAIN!") I was on an absolute high. My main Monaco aims had been to meet Rob and Felipe, and I'd done all that within the space of around 3 hours. Monaco had already gotten me hook, line, and sinker.




On our train journey home, old misery guts me commented that the day had been so good that something bad was bound to happen to even things out. Oh dear.